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Cleaning the inside of a car’s windshields and windows every few weeks to remove dust, smudges, and dirt is essential for aesthetics reasons. It also improves visibility and lowers driver fatigue, which means safer driving. Although cleaning your vehicle’s windshields and windows may sound like an easy task for some, sometimes the whole chore can become difficult making the windows harder to see through than before. It’s important to get everything right the very first time to avoid repeating the same task. Following this guide will teach you the best way to clean car windows, in just a few steps.

#1 Pull Vehicle Into a Shade

Before you get started, it’s important to first find a place where you can clean your windows in the shade. A dry and cloudy day also sets a great opportunity to start your cleaning as the temperatures are usually cool, making it difficult for your cleaner to dry before you can wipe it off. You can also use water to speed up heat evaporation from the windows. Otherwise, cleaning your windows on a sunny day would make the cleaner dry onto the hot windows and, therefore, leave stubborn streaks behind.

#2 Clear All Dust and Dirt Around

Next, find a brush and start sweeping all dust and dirt on the window frame. You can also vacuum these unwanted materials with your machine’s dusting attachment if you have one around. At least this would help stop dirt from turning into an ugly mess when mixed with a cleaner. Sometimes the window screen may appear very grimy. On this particular occasion, you should first pop out the window screen before any cleaning takes place. Once you’ve the windscreen on the ground, wash it with some warm water and a soft brush, then rinse and wait for a few minutes for the window to dry before placing it back.

#3 Clean the Rear and Front Windows

Spray the glass cleaner onto a microfiber cloth. Just a few splashes every few seconds should do the trick, depending on how dirty your windows look. Extremely dirty windows would require some extra cleaning solution than usual in order to completely wipe away all the dirt.

Eventually all the dirt should clear after a few touches, but be careful not to spray the cleaner directly onto the windows as this would make the glass hazy. Because some stains might be very stubborn to come off easily, you can use a wet rug to remove the heavy bug splatter. You may also sprinkle some baking soda on the dirt, although you should allow the solution to sit for a few minutes so that the stain can become loose.

Next, find a clean microfiber cloth and start wiping both the rear and front windows clean, working from top to bottom in an up-and-down or circular motion. For a more effective cleaning, avoid using paper towels but rather use a microfiber cloth or some sponge instead. At least a microfiber cloth won’t leave pesky fiber behind on the windows. This piece of cloth is also effective in eliminating even the smallest dust and dirt particles hidden in the inside of a car’s windows and windshields.

#4 Roll Down Your Side Windows

The top area in which the window slides into place inside the rubber seal is a common area that many people usually skip when cleaning windows. To get rid of these conspicuous lines, roll your side windows down a little bit then wipe the area with a piece of cloth as usual. If the part is substantially dirty, consider adding some extra cleaner to remove dirt from the area.

#5 Clean the Wiper Blades

Finally, spray the glass cleaner onto the wiper blades to dissolve and suspend any dirt buildup present then wipe them dry with a microfiber cloth. The dirt on the edges sometimes can harm the windshield and cause them to wear off faster than usual if not properly maintained. To avoid this issue, make sure to use a wiper treatment once you finish cleaning the windshield edges.

General Car Window Cleaning and Maintenance

This doesn’t mean that you should follow all of the above steps every time you wash your vehicle. On the other hand, it’s important that you deep-clean the windows and windshields every time you polish your vehicle.

Deep-cleaning your car windows at least once every 6 months or twice annually is fine. However, you can use a glass cleaner in the last step after washing and drying the car. This should be done at least once every week to ensure clarity and cleanliness of both the windows and windshields in between the stages of polishing and deep-cleaning.

Also make sure to treat the windows with a clay bar every time you clean your vehicle. Car shampoo, in particular, makes an excellent lubricant for clay bars. At least this would help eliminate any mild stains conspicuous on the windows and windshields without scratching the surface.

Conclusion

Taking time to clean the inside of a car’s windows every few weeks often brings potential aesthetics improvement you would like to achieve. Clean windshields also give you a clearer view of the road, which significantly lowers the likelihood of a car accident. Nevertheless cleaning the inside of a car’s windows is not easy as most people think, so you’ll want to make sure that you get everything right the very first time. Hopefully, the handy tips shared in this guide will teach every motorist learn the best way to clean car windows in order to improve aesthetics both from the inside and outside.

Typically, the transmission fluid on your Nissan versa should be changed every 30,000 to 60,000 miles but sometimes a fluid change may be necessary sooner in case the level of the fluid becomes low before the recommended 30,000 to 60,000 miles lapses. If you use your car intensively a transmission fluid change is advisable a lot sooner possibly after about 15,000 to 20,000 miles.

Some of the indicators that your Nissan Versa is running low on transmission fluid include

• Erratic or uneven transmission which may be noticed by the driver as sudden increases or decreases in the car’s speed and power or a jerking motion whenever the car shifts gear.

• Greatly varying speeds on the RPM gauge while driving even on level terrain even with relatively normal loading characteristics.

• Grinding and screeching noises coming from the transmission.

• Sometimes the versa may completely fail to engage a gear even after you have made the shift from one gear to another

• An overheated transmission may also be an indicator that you are low on your transmission fluid. Typically, it is marked by a burning smell coming from the car transmission.

If you have experienced any of the above problems, it may be an indicator that your Nissan versa is low on the transmission fluid and if so it may be time to change or add transmission fluid.

So how do you check the transmission fluid on a Nissan Versa?

1. Park the Nissan versa on level ground engage the car parking and turn on and let it run for at least 30 minutes so that the car engine can become warm enough. It is advisable to check for the transmission fluid level on a running car so once the Nissan versa gets warm enough you can continue with the checking procedure.
2. Pop the bonnet using the open engine-level located on the driver’s side below the steering wheel (it has an open bonnet drawn on it) and locate the transmission fluid reservoir that is located on the left-hand side of the engine right below the coolant filling port
3. Take the transmission fluid reservoir cap out by pulling on it gently and place it in somewhere that is easy to locate to avoid misplacing it or putting it in a place that it interferes with the engines running mechanism
4. Take out your Versa’s oil dipstick and look for a clean dry fabric to wipe off the residual oil from the dipstick
5. Once you’ve made sure the dipstick is clean as any oil residuals may contaminate the transmission fluid insert the dipstick into the transmission fluid reservoir.
6. Push in the dipstick until it can go in any further
7. Pull out the dipstick and carefully check the transmission fluid level
8. The fluid level should be at the second U curve on the dipstick from the bottom for the recommended transmission fluid level.
9. Wipe off the transmission fluid from the dipstick and put it back in the oil reservoir.

It’s very important to your tire wear, traction and fuel mileage. Here’s why…

• If your tires are wearing abnormally, alignment should be checked to find out why. Chances are something is amiss and needs to be readjusted or replaced. It only takes a 1/8 inch of toe misalignment to drag the front tires sideways the equivalent of 28 feet for every mile traveled!
• If you’re buying a new set of tires and want to maximize tread life, it’s a good idea to have the alignment checked as insurance. Even if the factory alignment is within the acceptable range specified by the vehicle manufacturer, there’s often room for improvement. Resetting alignment to the “preferred specs” (which means the midrange or optimum specs) will usually extend tire life — sometimes significantly. Considering the high cost of many performance tires today, assuring maximum tire life with an alignment is money well spent.
• If you’re experiencing any kind of steering or handling problem, an alignment check may be necessary for diagnostic purposes. An important aspect of aligning the wheels is performing a preliminary alignment inspection of the suspension and steering linkage. This is necessary to determine if there are any worn, damaged or misallocated parts. It’s impossible to realign worn or damaged parts so any such parts must be replaced before the wheels can be realigned.
• Wheel alignment is also required when certain suspension and steering components are replaced. On most cars with MacPherson struts, the front wheels should be realigned if the struts are replaced (NOTE: This is not necessary on certain import vehicles that have replaceable strut cartridges). Alignment is also required if the tie rods, tie rod ends, idler arm, steering links, control arms or control arm bushings, steering knuckle or steering rack have been replaced.
• Another benefit of having the wheels aligned is to assure optimum handling and traction for driving safety. Camber, in particular, is a very important angle with respect to keeping the tire’s treads in full contact with the road. Tires that lean in or out ride on the shoulder and reduce traction, cornering ability and tread life. Camber can even affect braking. Uneven camber or caster side to side can make a vehicle lead to the left or the right.

Source: Yahoo Autos

Yes. It has been researched and documented that tires with the most tread must go on the back of the vehicle to help maintain better control!

^{Note the tire safety information below, taken from car-accident-rain.com, brought to you by The Brain Injury Law Group – No Charge Unless We Win.}

Two Tires Done Wrong. New Tires must go on the Back.

The depth of tread on a tire directly impacts at what point a tire will begin to hydroplane.

FACT: Tires on the front will typically wear more than tires on the rear of a vehicle.

FACT: If the tires are rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles, the tires on the vehicle will have reasonably even tread.

FACT: Many people don’t rotate their tires every 5,000 to 8,000 miles. Thus, when they have their tires looked at, the front tires have worn out and the back tires still have some tread life left on them. It is thus necessary to only replace the front tires.

FACT: If one pair of tires has more tread on them than the other pair, then the pair with less tread will begin to hydroplane with less water on the road surface than the other pair.

FACT: If the pair of tires which begin to hydroplane first is on the front of the vehicle, it is far easier to regain control of the vehicle. First, the driver will feel the skid in the steering when the skid begins. Second, the intuitive action of taking your foot off the accelerator and steering into the direction of the skid will prevent loss of control. When it is the back tires which begin to skid, it is much more difficult to control. The loss of control is much harder to detect because it isn’t felt in the steering wheel and the actions to control are counterintuitive (turning away from the direction of the skid).

Thus: Every tire manufacturer recommends that the new tires (or in a rotation situation) that the tires with the most tread be mounted on the rear.

Problem:

1. Many tire professionals still believe that the tires with the most tread should go on the front if it is a front-wheel drive vehicle.
2. Many tire professionals believe that it makes a difference what season of the year it is.
3. Many tire professionals will ask the customer for his or her preference. “Where do you want us to put the new tires?”
4. Many tire professionals will simply rotate the more worn tires off the front of the vehicle to the back, even when the tires are not replaced. Prevention: Insist on putting your new tires on the rear.

Liability: If there has been a hydroplaning accident, it is imperative that the tires are examined by a forensics professional and that the service records of the vehicle be investigated. If new tires were purchased or installed on the front of the vehicle, we believe that the installer of these tires could be legally negligent and responsible for all injuries suffered in such accident.

New Tires must go on the Back. Tire Placement Myths?

Front Wheel Drive cars – This is a tricky situation, because it is natural to assume that the wheels that have to do the pulling (front wheel on front wheel drive car) should have the best traction. The natural assumption is the wrong one and the likely reason that the installation of two new tires is done wrong on so many front wheel drive cars.

All Wheel Drive vehicles – The rule is the same. Best tires on the back.

Snow Tires – The Rule is the most tread on the back. If you need snow tires in a front wheel drive, because those are the tires that do the pulling, then you must put snow tires on all four wheels. See manufacturers’ recommendations below.

It makes a difference what season – This is likely a corollary of the front wheel drive/snow tire myth. Since people are most concerned about traction in the winter snow conditions, the argument for wanting the best traction on the wheels doing the pulling seems strongest. Yet, the front wheels slipping, even if it is the tires doing the pulling, is far less dangerous than losing control of the back end of a car. This is the reason that all tire manufacturers, say “best tires on the back. “ If you need better traction on the pulling tires, then get four new tires.

The blow out risk – Of course you’d rather have a blowout on the back as opposed to the front, but if you are going to have a blowout at highway speeds, the tread depth is not going to be the cause. It will be caused by something like a nail, a pot hole or other foreign object or hazard. If a nail goes into the tire, it doesn’t matter if you have 4/32 or 14/32 of tread depth.  Further which is a greater likelihood of happening? A blowout or driving in rain on the interstate? Definitions: Oversteer – Oversteer (losing control of the rear wheels outside the path of travel) Understeer (losing control of the front wheels)

Tire Manufacturers’ Recommendations. What the Manufacturers Say.

Goodyear: www.goodyeartires.com “When you select a pair of replacement tires in the same size and construction as those on the car, we recommend you put them on the rear axle.“

Bridgestone/Firestone: www.tiresafety.com from the Replacement Manual: “Winter tires are best applied to all vehicle positions. If winter tires are applied to the front axle of any vehicle, they must also be installed on the rear. Do not apply winter tires to only the front axle — this applies to all passenger cars and light trucks, including front wheel drive, 4×4 and all-wheel drive vehicles.“

Dunlap: www.dunloptires.com “When you select a pair of replacement tires in the same size and construction as those on the car, we recommend you put them on the rear axle.”

Michelin: www.michelinman.com “A pair of new tires should go in back. See video.”

Other tire prevention tips:

BF Goodrich: www.bfgoodrichtires.com “REPLACEMENT OF TWO (2) TIRES It is recommended that all four (4) tires are replaced at the same time. However, whenever only two tires are replaced, the new ones should be put on the rear. The new tires, with deeper tread, may provide better grip and water evacuation in wet driving conditions.”

Continental: continentaltire.custhelp.com “Winter tires should be used on all four wheel positions. Never put non-radial winter tires on the rear if radials are on the front, except when the vehicle has duals on the rear. On front-wheel-drive or performance vehicles, it may be advisable to install winter or all season tires on all wheel positions to maintain consistent handling in winter conditions.”

Please note that while this is intended to outline general guidelines and considerations for tire placement, it is not all-inclusive.

IMPORTANT: Before replacing tires, ALWAYS refer to and follow the vehicle manufacturer’s replacement tire restrictions and recommendations.

WARNING: Without tires on the rear axle which have comparable traction qualities to the tires on the front axle, the vehicle may experience adverse handling characteristics. This may result in loss of vehicle control, which could cause serious injury or death.

Two Tires Done Wrong. Legal Claims.

Hydroplaning wrecks can be among the most devastating on the road, especially as the risk of such accidents grow exponentially as speed increases. Spinal cord injuries, severe brain injuries and other disabling conditions are common. As stated in our video introduction, far too many of these cases are ignored because they involve one car wrecks or cases in which the most injured party is thought to be at fault. Often these cases are not pursued because there is not enough insurance to cover the catastrophic nature of the spinal cord or brain injuries.

Failing to properly investigate the tire installation facts in a hydroplaning or fishtailing wreck is a huge mistake. As stated in these pages, all manufacturers recommendations state that the new tires should go on the back. If new tires are installed on the front (the myth as to what should be done) the sellers or installers of such tires are clearly liable for all injuries. The facts of what should be done is so clear cut, that the defense of these cases if often quite meek.

While the legal community is just beginning to become aware as to the legal responsibility for such wrecks, there have been several large settlements against installers.

In a confidential California case, the plaintiff’s vehicle lost control in a puddle of water, resulting in a rollover and rendering the plaintiff a quadriplegic. While all of the tires on the plaintiff’s car had adequate tread, the defendant sold the plaintiff two new tires just before the accident, and installed them on the front. This was a violation of the defendant’s company policy. The case settled for $8.5 million.

In a case against Costco and General Motors that settled for $10,000,000, Costco had installed the two new MIchelin tires on the front and the General Motors dealer had inspected the tires just before the accident and didn’t detect the misplacement or was aware of the manufacturer’s recommendations.

To win a legal case, it is essential that the tires be inspected while the vehicle is still available, so immediate action is best. If there are new tires on the front and not the back, a clear cut claim can be made.